Winter Wonderland: Unforgettable 9-Day Icelandic Adventure
- Chris
- Jan 16, 2024
- 20 min read
Updated: Jan 18, 2024
If there is one phrase I would describe Iceland, it would be the name of the epic fantasy series by George R.R. Martin, "A Song by Ice and Fire" (you know, the one that later became a blockbuster hit show "The Game of Thrones" on HBO). Iceland's surreal landscapes, unique lighting conditions, and natural wonders make it a true haven for anyone seeking to capture the beauty of nature and create extraordinary visual masterpieces. From majestic waterfalls to glaciers, black sand beaches, geothermal hot springs, and volcanic craters, the country offers a visual feast of natural wonders. Luckily for me, I was fortunate to get the full Icelandic experience, from walking inside ice caves to getting into a minor car accident (it's a lot more frequent than you think, unfortunately) to seeing the northern lights on my last night.
If you plan to spend around 7-10 days in Iceland, then keep on reading. This 9-day sample itinerary provides a great balance between the sight sees and the pacing of the trip. If you have more time, then obviously you can explore more of Iceland, but from my due diligence work, the northern part of Iceland may be more difficult to get to because the roads are less maintained, making it more challenging to navigate around.
I've divided up the post by the days; if you prefer to speed run this post and would like to jump around, click on the links below and it will direct you to the exact spot.
Practical Tips and What to Expect Traveling to Iceland
Before we go through the itinerary, I've included several tips and expectations here to equip you with as much information as needed before your trip.
1) Renting a car is strongly encouraged. You will have 3 main options to get around:
a) via tour group
b) renting a camper van,
c) renting a car through a car agency
While you will get to travel with other people in the tour group, it offers the least amount of flexibility because you are stuck with the provided by the tour; you won't have the time to explore everything you would like to see. Furthermore, most of the tour groups will only take you to the golden circle and won't go past that.
The camper van offers the most flexibility in that you can probably park this somewhere and sleep in it without having to go back to your hostel. However, the camper van life is not for everybody, and it potentially may be costlier than renting a car + booking lodging. For example, if you go to CamperVan Iceland website, you can see that the price for 9 days will vary anywhere from $600 - $1800 USD depending on transmission and size of your camper.
I opted to rent my own car, and I used BlueCar Rental. For 9 days, I recommend getting a 4WD SUV, which cost $550+ USD. The rental agency was also extremely helpful when I had to deal with the paperwork with the accident, so I would recommend checking them out if you would like to go this route. Most packages offer unlimited miles, so you also have flexibility to drive as much as you want around the island.
2) Having the right mindset to explore Iceland during the winter season. Two things I want to stress here: it's going to be cold and it's going to be an expensive trip. Be sure to bring the following:
- Wool garments (socks, underwear, base layers) that will help keep you warm and allow you to wear them for multiple days without any odor
- Water resistant hiking boots + traction devices
- An outer shell to protect you from the elements. For reference, I brought an Arc' teryx Alpha SV Jacket, which is super light weight and has the patented Gore-Tex material.
- Water resistant gloves and a nice knitted beanie. Trust me, it is not fun if your hands or head are constantly freezing.
- Rain pants. See a trend here? All of these items are to ensure you stay dry and have the most wonderful experience. The weather in Iceland is often unpredictable and you just have expect snow or rain during the winter season.
In addition, please go into Iceland knowing that if you plan to eat at restaurants, you will pay a lot more than you're accustomed to (unless you live in Switzerland perhaps?) This is the first trip where I think I cooked more at the hostels than eating out just because food was super expensive there. Imagine paying $35 USD just for a 10" pizza. I knew I had to be a bit mindful of that given the length of the trip.
3) Download the app Aurora Alerts (or any app that tracks the northern lights) on your phone. They come in handy for informing you the probability of northern lights activity and where you can see them. Super useful and cool to look at every night if one of the biggest reasons to go to Iceland was for the northern lights.
Day 1: Arrival in Reykjavik
Most of us will start our journey from the Keflavik International Airport. Assuming you rented a car, it will take ~45minutes to Reykjavik, the capital of Iceland. I didn't have any issues finding free or paid parking around the city, which was nice especially at night when I needed to park close to the hostel I stayed at, the Kex Hostel. They are located right by the waters but it is walking distance to most things you'd want to see in the city. A night ranges from $34 for a 8-bedroom to $150 for a private room depending on your situation. They have a sizable kitchen if you want to cook your own food, and they also have a lounge area where you can relax or converse with other fellow travelers.
If you get to Reykjavik early, start your morning off with a delicious breakfast at Sandholt. This bakery is one of the oldest bakeries in the country and their breakfast sandwiches are super tasty. The place itself is quite small, so expect a wait time during peak hours.
Next, walk 6 minutes south to the most visited attraction in Reykjavik, the Hallgrimskirkja. Designed by renowned Icelandic architect Guðjón Samúelsson, construction began in 1945 and did not finish until 1986. The design is unique in several ways: first, he wanted to implement some of the notable Icelandic elements, such as the hexagonal basalt columns lava formations, and glaciers. It also resembles an upside down hammer, which is likely a tribute to the Icelandic culture. Make sure to check their operating hours as they do close the church and the towers for mass. I highly recommend paying the fee to get to the top of the church for some amazing views of the city.
Afterwards, walk towards the coast to the Sun Voyager, a sculpture right by the hostel right along the waters. This is the perfect beginning to your midday stroll as you can also make your way east to the Recycled House. I recommend just walking around the city without a plan because sometimes you may find something you enjoy, like a boutique shop or a bar you'd like to try. Those spontaneous finds are always the best in my opinion. In the evening, make your way back to the center and take some photos on Rainbow Street, which was painted in celebration of Reykjavik Pride.
On Rainbow Street, stop by the restaurant called 101 Reykjavik Street Food. This spot offers affordable Icelandic dishes like fish stew, lamb meat soup, and lobster soup. I enjoyed it thoroughly since I love soup on chilly days. I opted for a lighter schedule on Day 1 on the since I wanted to get a good night's sleep before exploring the Golden Circle tomorrow.
Day 2: Golden Circle Tour
The Golden Circle is the most famous circular scenic route that covers approximately 190 miles (306km) and contains stunning landmarks and notable places Many tour agencies offer a day trip from Reykjavik to the top attractions within the Golden Circle. You should probably start your day early because you will most likely only get 5-6 hours of daylight each day, so it's vital to sacrifice long nights and have an early start with the drive.
I stopped by a waterfall called Þórufoss before I started the actual Golden Circle. If you reference the photo from above, it is the blue camera icon just outside the red path to the left of Thingvellir National Park. I couldn't pass up this landscape while I was looking at waterfall photos. However, this is something you can skip if you're tight on time.
Þingvellir National Park
This isn't just your typical national park; Þingvellir ("Assembly Plains" in English) holds a significant moment in Icelandic history because it is a crucial site in Icelandic history due to its role as the birthplace of the Alþingi (world's oldest existing parliamentary institution), its geological significance, and its representation of Icelandic independence. Established in 930 AD, the Alþingi served as a gathering place for the nation's chieftains and leaders to make laws, settle disputes, and discuss important matters. The parliament actually continued to gather here until 1798. In addition, this is also the place where Icelanders declared their independence from Denmark in 1944.
Þingvellir is situated in a rift valley along the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are pulling apart. This geological phenomenon not only provides a stunning landscape but this is the only place in the world where you can walk between two continental plates. There is a very defined path where it will take you to the Öxarárfoss, this beautiful and picturesque waterfall.
A few other noteworthy comments here:
- If you have more time and is an avid diver, be sure to add this on your bucket list. This is the only place in the world where you can dive between the two tectonic plates.
- Parking at the national park is not free; be sure to pay for parking! I remember getting an expensive bill from the car rental agency because I failed to pay at the machine.
Geysir Hot Springs
If you continue the drive clockwise from the national park, the next big attraction would be the Geysir Hot Springs. You can park near the Visitor Center, where you can also grab a small snack or a hot chocolate before you cross the road over to the geysers. There are three main geysers that still shoot out water every 5-10 minutes: Strokkur, Smiður and Litli-Strokkur. Strokkur is the most famous one as it can shoot out boiling water up to 130 feet (40m) high. There are plenty of barriers to prevent people from getting too close, so all you need here is some patience and have your phone ready when you hear the geyser ready to go off.
Gullfoss
As you continue on Route 35 for another 10 minutes, you will reach the Gullfoss waterfall lookout. Known as "Golden Falls" in English, this waterfall is located on the Hvita River and is arguably the most iconic one in all of Iceland. The waterfall is more voluminous in the summer but this is still a really pretty scene with the snow covered on top. Gullfoss has two drops, one at around 36 feet and the taller one at around 70 feet (21m).
There is some fascinating backstory behind this waterfall. It was first introduced to the wider world by two Icelandic farmers, Tómas Tómasson and Halldór Halldórsson. In the early 1900s, foreign investors, notably an English businessman named Howell, sought to harness the power of Gullfoss for hydroelectric power, so the waterfall's ownership became a matter of dispute. Tómasson refused to sell to the investors, but Howell still proceeded with his plans anyways due to a loophole. Sigridur Tomasdottir, daughter of Tómasson, spearheaded the efforts in making sure Howell would not succeed. She lawyered up and spent years fighting this legal battle. In 1929, Howell finally pulled out due to increase in operating costs, giving a huge victory to Sigridur, who ended up being named as one of Iceland's first environmentalist.
Few small noteworthy comments here:
- Entrance is free, but parking is not. Again, remember to pay for parking!
- Certain sections are pretty slippery here, so be careful when you walk up and down the stairs. The traction devices aren't needed, but take extra precautions.
Kerid Crater
Most scientists believed that Kerid was a cone-shaped volcano, and when it erupted, it caused the volcano to collapse on its own foundation, creating the crater as we see it today. The crater was then filled with underground water (surprisingly, it is not fed from the rainwater) and remains there as it has nowhere to drain out. The drive from Gullfoss to Kerid Crater is roughly 45 minutes, so I put the crater as the last destination of the day. However, this really depends on your pace and available sunlight since the experience is best in daylight. Therefore, consider arriving here before you check into your lodging, or start your day tomorrow with a brisk morning hike around the crater. The trail involves both ascent and descent , and certain parts can be icy, so use traction devices as needed.
Lodging recommendations
There are three lodging options I'd recommend depending on how and where you finish the golden circle tour. The following three options also have different price points depending on your budget and comfort level.
This boutique hostel offers various rooms, from shared bunk bed rooms to family options, priced between $40 to $200. This place is ideal if you like to stay closer to the northern part of the Golden circle. I opted for a bunk bed for 1 night and had it all to myself so it was certainly very comfortable. Parking is free here.
This hotel is located in the southern part of the Golden Circle, and priced between $94 for a private room to $255 for a family room. They have a dedicated restaurant here, and the food prices actually look pretty reasonable for an Icelandic hotel.
If you like an unique experience, then this is for you. The cottages have been family-owned since 1926, and because it is so removed from light pollution, you can maybe catch the Northern lights here on a clear night. One cottage can run about $175 per night.
Day 3-5: South Coast Exploration
As you see in the graphic above, Days 3-5 involve driving all along the picturesque Highway 1. Planning your itinerary should be pretty straightforward as you are only going in one direction. Simply pick and choose what beach, waterfall, or other sight sees you'd like to stop at on this journey.
Before diving into must-see sights, a quick heads-up on key considerations and some valuable insights I want to share with you:
Watch your speed on Highway 1; there are speeding cameras in certain spots. Google Maps does inform you where they are, but pay extra attention when you approach the areas
Expect to drive a lot in these next few days. This is a given especially if you are hunting for the Northern Lights once it gets dark as you may need to follow what the northern lights tracker tells you.
Stay in Vik (see the icon-packed area on the map above) for 3 nights (Days 3-5). It is right in the midpoint of the stretch in the event you'd like to revisit certain attractions. More on this later.
Wear your water resistant boots and rain pants. There are moments where you will walk on wet stones, so make sure to bring them to keep you dry until you need to take them off for photo op purposes
The first sight sees you should stop are the Seljalandsfoss and Gljufrabui waterfalls. They are two different waterfalls relatively close to one another. Seljalandsfoss is known because there is a cave behind the waterfall which people can access, but the path is closed during the winter due to icy conditions. Nevertheless, it is a very beautiful waterfall.
Gljufrabui is located to the left of Seljalandsfoss and personally my favorite waterfall of the trip because of it's quite hidden and not easy to get into. When you go back to the main path, steer left and keep walking up away from Seljalandsfoss. It should be a quick 10 minute walk and expect to see a gathering right by the waterfall entrance. You will have to step on wet stones and crouch to enter inside. I was lucky and didn't slip, but I had to be extra careful as I was carrying my camera backpack. Once you get in, we had a small queue where people walked up as close as they liked and people would take photos for each other.
Hop back in your car and drive 20 minutes to the next gem, Skógarfoss. This waterfall, with its 200-foot (61m) drop and 80-foot (24m) width, is one of the biggest and most beautiful waterfalls in Iceland. The pure black pebbles make for a stunning photo, especially when the sun is hitting the waterfall directly. Because of the amount of mist it produces, there is always some kind of rainbow whenever the sun emerges. People can literally walk up to this waterfall as the path is quite flat, but you will obviously get drenched, so be warned!
Remember how I mentioned that the weather can change at any given point in time? Compare my photos from above to this one on the right just 30 minutes apart. The sun was nowhere to be seen earlier but it emerged from the clouds when we got to this waterfall. I would recommend spending about 25-30 minutes and snap as many photos as you'd like here.
Next, enter "Dyrhólaey Viewpoint" to your Maps app. This viewpoint is another 20 minute drive from Skógarfoss and takes you to a higher elevation point and offers a fantastic view of the south coast. I would not dwell here for too long because at this point you should be approaching sunset and blue hour, and the next stop is the best place to catch it. However, if you're short on time, you can always come back to this spot in the next few days. I wish I had a drone to capture this unreal scene over the Reynisfjara Beach, the long strip of black sand you see in the photo. Reynisfjara Beach is also worth exploring as it is rated one of the prettiest but dangerous beaches in Iceland, but you will have plenty of opportunities to explore it if you're following my recommended itinerary. It is not always accessible, however, because the waves at this beach are super unpredictable. Therefore, please be mindful of the following when visiting beaches like this one:
Never turn your back on the ocean.
Check the weather app and the conditions
Keep a safe distance from the waves. You may run into "sneaker" waves, ones that can sneak up onto you and potentially pull you away
Heed the warning signs and stay in the designated area
Víkurfjara black sand beach is much less riskier and more accessible than Reynisfjara. Upon arrival, I found numerous photographers with their tripods already in place, so that just shows that this is an excellent spot for photography. You can see that the sun was going to set behind the jagged rocks, I got lucky that it all worked out because the next few days were completely cloudy. I think it is worth spend at least 45 minutes on Vikurfjara before you check-in at The Barn, the hostel in Vik that I stayed at and highly recommend.
There are several room options available, ranging from $65 to $95 USD. I chose this hostel for its affordability, convenient location, and amazing amenities such as a a spacious kitchen area on the second floor and a mini bar on the ground floor. I opted for a shared mixed dorm room and was lucky to have it all to myself the few nights I was there.
By the time you check into the hostel, it'll be dark outside. Therefore, I recommend making one groceries store run and then check your northern lights app to see if there is a chance of seeing them. I spent my night after dinner driving up and down the highway hoping to catch a glimpse of the lights, but to no avail.
Days 4 and 5 offers some flexibility, allowing you to either revisit waterfalls or explore new sights heading eastward. As you can see from the photo, I covered a considerable the distance in these days, returning to Skogafoss and Reynisfjara Beach. In Iceland, revisiting attractions is common due to unpredictable weather and the desire to capture the perfect photos. I recommend checking out the following in these next 2 days:
Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon
What makes Fjaðrárgljúfur unique is its distinctive, winding shape, with the river snaking through the narrow gorge. The canyon is approximately 1.2 miles (2km) long and has a striking visual appeal, characterized by its dramatic rock formations, lush greenery, and moss-covered walls. I wouldn't call this a "hike" as it takes 10-15 minutes from the parking lot to the end of the path. In the past, people can freely roam around the edge of the cliffs, but recently the Icelandic government built safeguards to prevent further deterioration to the soft grass and patches of moss. I went in the early morning and was the only person there, so I had all the time to take the photos I wanted here.
Stjórnarfoss Waterfall
This small waterfall is an additional 10 minutes away from the canyon, so I figured to check it out. Because of the size, I feel that not many people visit it, but this spot would be perfect to stay for lunchtime. I can only imagine the vibrant colors that come out during spring time, but the snow and ice here definitely makes for a different experience.
Fossálar Waterfall
This is another lesser-known waterfall, but extremely accessible as it is quite literally right alongside the highway. Frankly, this was one of my favorites from a photography standpoint because of the location; you have the cliffs in the backdrop, the multi-level mini cascades, and you can just stand right next to it. It was like if I was part of a live landscape painting here. This waterfall is located another 10 minutes north of Stjórnarfoss.
Reynisfjara Beach
This beach deserves another shout out because I cannot emphasize enough how this is truly the gem of the southern coast of Iceland. Not going to lie, but I purposely brought several bright jackets to contrast the black in the backdrop knowing that I will come here and take lots of photos. One of the notable geological features at Reynisfjara is the basalt column formations. These hexagonal are characterized by their regular and geometrically shaped pillars, formed as lava flow cooled and contracted. The result is a fascinating display of these unique structures along the shoreline. One of the most famous basalt formations at Reynisfjara is called Hálsanefshellir or simply "the cave" (see photo 4 in the slideshow).
If you have extra time, consider visiting the following sight (albeit with mixed reviews), "Solheimasandur Plane Wreck". Under better conditions and with more time, I personally would have explored the site. The story was that back in 1973, a US Navy plane crashed on this black beach. Luckily, everyone survived, but remnants remain. In a perfect world, if I knew there would be strong northern lights activity in the area, I would have loved to capture this shot. Some travelers I met on this trip advised against the 1-hour walk to the plane wreck, stating it wasn't worth it. Additionally, the aircraft is gradually deteriorating as visitors remove pieces from it. It really depends on whether you're open to spending 2 hours walking to explore a plane wreck.
Day 6: Glacier Hiking and Ice Caves
Day 6 should be a highly anticipated adventure for you because while waterfalls and caves are beautiful, they are common worldwide. Hiking to a glacier ice cave, on the other hand, can only be done in certain parts of the world. It is a 2hr 30 minute drive from Vik to Jökulsárlón (enter Jökulsárlón Main Parking in Google Maps) and I would recommend you book an afternoon tour. I found mine on Get Your Guide here (Jökulsárlón: Vatnajökull Glacier Blue Ice Cave Guided Tour).
This 3-hour adventure was $145 USD, making it my most expensive sight see of the trip but it was worth every penny. I recommend getting to this area early because there are couple of things you should definitely check out before your glacier hike.
On the opposite side of the highway is Diamond Beach, renowned for its unique black volcanic beach scattered with glistening icebergs that have washed ashore from the lagoon. The sparkling ice chunks resemble diamonds, creating a surreal and breathtaking landscape.
As you make your way back to the main parking lot, there is a viewpoint over Jökulsárlón, where you can soak in the crisp air and the cool backdrop. Unfortunately, I had my minor car accident on my way to the parking lot, so I didn't have the opportunity to enjoy it as much as I would like, but I hope you have better luck than I did. Spend 1-2 hours here before you embark on your glacier hike.
The tour guide put us in an extremely rugged 4x4 caravan capable of carrying 10-12 people at once. We were given some safety gear and the drive took about 30 minutes into the Vatnajökull national park. What makes the ice cave unique is that it is never the same adventure. Ice caves changes every year, so the mountaineers go out and identify viable options for visitor explorations. Therefore, it is always a surprise for everyone to see what kind of formations people get to see year in and year out. Different tour groups also use the same caves, and it looked like they all have staggered timing so it doesn't feel crowded once inside.
We spent about 1.5 hours inside the cave and every one helped take photos for one another. It was truly mesmerizing to see the light through translucent ice formations and the enchanting blue hues created by compressed ice crystals. At one point, our tour guide took us to one of the darkest spots of the cave, asked us to turn off our flashlights, and started singing an Icelandic folk song. Now that was a pleasant surprise, and the sound just reverberated all around us, sending even more chills through my bones. It was one of those unexpected moments that I would never forget.
For lodging in this area, I recommend the 4-star hotel Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon if you would like to spend a bit more for the night (or if you're in a group/ significant other), or you can always drive back to The Barn for another night at the hostel. The Fosshotel runs about $230 a night for 2 standard double beds. I recommend these two because you will have to eventually backtrack and drive back towards Reykjavik, so the more distance you cover at night, the less of a drive you have for tomorrow morning.
Day 7-8: Make way back towards Reykjavik and continue on to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula
If you can do more than 9 days in Iceland during the winter, then you have the option to continue driving east after the glacier hike to explore the East Fjords. Otherwise, I recommend making your way back towards Reykjavik so you don't have to worry about an extended drive on your last days here. In Days 7 & 8, I decided to drive back and explore the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, located between Reykjavik and the West Fjords. It was a 6.5 - 7 hour drive from the Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon to the Freezer Hostel in Snæfellsnes, which is the lodging I recommend there.
Snæfellsnes Peninsula is often referred to as "Iceland in Miniature" because this peninsula in itself encapsulates many of the country's diverse landscapes such as volcanic craters, lava fields, and coastal cliffs. Here are the top 4 attractions I recommend checking out:
Kirkjufell Mountain
Often considered one of the most iconic and photographed mountains in Iceland, the distinctive shape and the nearby Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall make for a stunning landscape. The parking lot for the viewpoint is ~1 hour drive east from the Freezer Hostel. It was quite the cloudy morning when I went, but one can dream of having a photo of the northern lights behind this iconic mountain.
Búðakirkja
Located on the southern part of the peninsula, this picturesque church was first built in 1848 and is still being used today. The church is set against a backdrop of the coastal cliffs and the Snæfellsjökull glacier in the distance, so this was definitely worth spending time snapping photos. While touring the southern Icelandic coast, you'll notice many white churches with red roofs. Thus, encountering a completely black church with white doors and windows was a unique and refreshing sight.
Arnarstapi Village
As you continue to make your way down south in the peninsula, park your car at one of the lots in Arnarstapi Village. There are several paths that take you all along the coastal cliff; the photo on the left is the Gatklettur – the Arch Rock. If you walk further up, you will also find the Stone Bridge, another iconic sight see in the village.
Djúpalónssandur Beach
Djúpalónssandur is a captivating black sand beach on the western part of the peninsula. You can also find the rusted remnants of "Epine", a British fishing boat that was shipwrecked on this coast back in 1948. The beach is also scattered with smooth, rounded pebbles, adding to its distinctive appearance.
At this point, you have the option to stay an extra night at the Freezer Hotel, or drive 3 hours back to Reykjavik area for the last day. I chose the latter to ensure ample relaxation time before my flight back.
Day 9: Relaxation in the lagoon before your flight back
On my last day of a trip, I always like to indulge in relaxation activities like an Arab bath, massage, or a simple beach day. The famous Blue Lagoon, the famous geothermal pool in Iceland, is a popular choice. The lagoon is located on the Reykjanes peninsula, 14 miles (23 km) from the airport. Be sure to book your entry well in advance as entry is limited.
Sky Lagoon is also an up and coming geothermal pool. Opened in 2021, it is actually close to Reykjavik, and personally I would have preferred to check this one purely because it's newer and not as famous as the counterpart.
You can also spend the last remaining time to catch any other sight sees in Reykjavik. It was raining when I was in the city so I went to the National Museum of Iceland, where you can learn the Icelandic cultural history. The Grotta Lighthouse area was also a pretty cool place to stop by; this was actually where I went on my last night. I thought I was a bit unlucky to trek around Iceland for 9 days and not see the Northern Lights at all, but alas, on the last night, Mother Nature decided to reward me. I decided to get away from all the light pollution and drove 1 hour south to an area called Lake Kleifarvatn to capture some Northern Light photos.
Last Words
I hope this post provided some valuable tid bits on the southern coast of Iceland, and hope my recommendations will help create your own adventure here. Even if you have less than the 7-10 days in Iceland, I'm confident that you can still use this guide to help maximize your stay. It's definitely one of the most expensive trips thus far, but definitely worth it, especially during the winter.
As always, feel free to leave a comment or message me directly if you have any questions or need any help with planning here!
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