My Winter Experience in Sevilla: The Heart of Andalucía
- Chris
- Jun 29, 2024
- 7 min read
Sevilla, the capital of Andalucian region, has a rich and diverse history. With its unique blend of historical richness, cultural vibrancy, and contemporary charm makes it one of Spain's most beloved and visited cities. As you will see throughout this post, this city has so many iconic places to take photos of, and I think it is one of the prettiest cities to walk around in Spain. Sevilla was the first stop of my Southern Spain trip back in December 2023, and I only spent 2 full days there, but I managed to explore most of the sight sees on my list.
When to visit and where to stay
December in Sevilla was delightful for a cold-weather person like me. Daytime temperatures reached a comfortable 65°F (18°C), while nights cooled to 45°F (7°C), making it a perfect winter escape. Now, when people go to Andalucia region, they usually combine a few other cities in the same trip. The region can get unbearably hot during the summer (June - August) as it can reach up to 95°F (35°C) during the day. Therefore, if you truly would like to enjoy the city without the large crowd and the intense heat, I highly recommend visiting Sevilla in late-April or May. However, I may also argue that December is a great time to visit this city too because of all the holiday lights and celebrations the lovely Spanish folks do every year. The Spanish cities come alive during this time, adorned with dazzling lights and festive decorations that transform streets and squares into magical wonderlands.
For the budget or solo travelers, there are a number of fantastic hostels situated in the center you can choose from. As you can see in the screenshot from the Hostelworld website, there are nine 9.0+ rating hostels, and most of them have dorms starting from EUR25 per night. I stayed at the Black Swan Hostel Sevilla and had no complaints there. I even befriended the guys who stayed in the same room and we ended up walking around the city together (more on that later).
Other hostels I would recommend you look into based on my research:
Oasis Backpackers Palace Sevilla
La Banda Rooftop Hostel
Oasis Backpacker's Hostel Sevilla & Coworking
Onefam Centro
I went to Sevilla by air, so I can say that getting from the airport to the city center is super convenient and cheap by bus. There is a dedicated bus connection called the "Especial Aeropuerto" (EA) that conects the airport to the city center and vice-versa. The service operates every day of the year, and costs only EUR5 one-way. There are nine stops from the airport to the last stop, so have a look at the shuttle map on their website to see if this is the best option for you. It took about 30-35 minutes to my stop and I walked another 10 minutes to the hostel.
I envision myself to visit Sevilla again and truly explore more places here, so instead of writing a sample itinerary, I will detail out the restaurants and places you absolutely must do, and a few places you should not pay admissions for.
Restaurant recommendations
This place was right around the corner from my hostel, and had really good reviews. It had everything I needed to start my day, from açai bowls to delicious smoothies to hearty sandwiches.
My hostel friend joined me for dinner one night and we timed it perfect where got there right before the dinner rush. We only had to wait 5 minutes for a table and this is true for any restaurant in Spain; people here tend to eat much later and so if you are accustomed to having dinner round 6:30pm-8pm, you may have a much better chance of getting sat right away since this is considered "way too early" for dinner. We shared a huge steak and fries plate and that was enough for the two of us. I also enjoyed the interior decor, with the Roman columns and arches as seen in the photo above.
On my first night in Sevilla, I visited this charming spot and got lucky - being solo, I was seated right away. I ordered some croquetas for starters and for my main course, I savored shrimp and potatoes paired with a glass of white wine. The restaurant is also located on a street with numerous restaurants as well in case you are unable to find a table here. The service was a bit slow even in Spanish standards as it took forever to get my bill, but I was in no rush and did not detract from how delicious the food was.
I actually did not have time to visit this tapas bar, but adding this historic tapas bar here because it holds the title of the oldest bar in Sevilla, having founded in 1670. Always a pleasure to visit the oldest establishments when you visit a city.
Top free Sevilla sight sees you must visit
Plaza de España
Completed in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exposition Fair, Plaza de España is the unanimous choice for best sight see in Sevilla. The plaza is encircled by a canal crossed by picturesque bridges, and its center is graced by a magnificent fountain. The whole building is surrounded by a moat, and you can rent row boats to enjoy the architectural marvel around you. Today, the buildings have been renovated for government office use, while a few other sections have been converted to museums. For me, I came here for one reason only; to recreate the scene with Padme and young Anakin Skywalker from Star Wars: Episode II - Attack of the Clones. If you would like to see my masterpiece, check out my Instagram post here. I was ecstatic when my hostel mates were also down to film some Grade A content here. Nevertheless, you will most likely find a flamenco show at the middle part of the buildling. Seriously, no trip to Sevilla would be complete without enjoying a stroll around this plaza.
Catedral de Sevilla
The Catedral de Sevilla is a symbolic marvel of its own; it is the largest Gothic cathedral and the third largest church in the world. The tomb of Christopher Columbus is located within the confines but I did not get a chance to see it. I think I went right when Sunday mass started because I was able to just walk inside. You can also explore the cathedral for free on Monday evenings; otherwise, you will need to go online and secure an entrance ticket.
Nightly stroll on the Puente de Triana bridge to the Triana district
I spent some time walking along the Guadalquivir river and ended up crossing the bridge over to the Triana district on the other side. This neighborhood is particularly known for their renowned ceramic tile workshops. It is also the birthplace of many flamenco artists, famous bullfighters, and famous potters. I did not get a chance to visit this area during the day, but I heard that it is a must to explore the market, restaurants, and other fun mom-and-pop stores on this side of town.
Real Alcázar of Sevilla - A MUST VISIT
Originally constructed as a Moorish fort in 913, the Alcázar has evolved over centuries, incorporating elements of Islamic, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles. This fusion of architecture is known as the Mudéjar style, characterized by the use of brick as the main material. It is considered the oldest palace still in use to this day. This architectural masterpiece, renowned for its intricate tile work, serene courtyards, and lush gardens, offers a glimpse into Spain's storied past. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1987 and is one of the most visited places in Spain.
One of my favorite parts of the palace was the Hall of Ambassadors, where you can see the golden dome and lavish decorations surrounding the hall. They also had beautiful courtyards influenced by the Moorish architectural and Islamic art similar to the Alhambra in Granada, but it felt more peaceful here while walking around the vicinity. The tranquil gardens, complete with fountains and a sanctuary for over 170 species, provides a finishing touch to the end of the palace tour. This magnificent landmark is a must-see for anyone passionate about history and architecture.
To experience the Real Alcázar, you can request tickets on their official website. General admission is typically EUR 14,50, but the Real Alcázar does offer free admissions on Monday at specific times:
* October to March: from 16:00hs to 17:00hs
* April to September: 18:00hs to 19:00hs
The one paid sight see to avoid
Las Setas de Sevilla
The name of this structure is actually called the Metropol Parasol, and was designed by a German architect. Initially, I was excited to check this out seeing that it was a piece of art and I wanted to photograph it, but If there's one popular attraction I'd suggest avoid paying for, it's the Las Setas de Sevilla. When I foud out that the general admission was EUR 15, it was an automatic turnoff. This really had no business of costing more than an entry to the Real Alcázar, so it was an easy decision to simply admire from down below even though it holds the title of the largest wooden structure in the world and offers some views of Sevilla. With that said, this area of old town Sevilla has a lot of delicious cafes you can check out after you graciously walk past this structure.
Conclusion
Sevilla, with its rich history, culture, and architectural splendor, offers an unforgettable experience for every traveler. From the beautiful Real Alcázar to the vibrant flamenco shows to the delicious tapas, Sevilla captivates at every turn. While the allure of Las Setas de Sevilla may not appeal to everyone, the city offers other gems that make up for it. Whether you're a history enthusiast, a culture lover, or simply seeking beauty and nice weather, you will understand why Sevilla is the heart of Andalucía. I hope this post helps you plan your next memorable trip to this lovely city, and feel free to reach out if you have any questions!
-Chris
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